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Longitude: 76.565652
Latitude: 35.813150
Altitude: 8051
Climbing Season: arrive at the mountain from May to early June, and climb the mountain from July to September
Address: on Karakoram Mountains at the border between China and Pakistan-controlled Kashmir
With the altitude of 8051 M, 12 KM from eastern Mount Chhogori, Broad Peak is the third highest peak on Karakoram Mountains and the 12thhighest peak in the world. Covered by snow all year round, Broad Peak is splendid and towering.
There are three main ridges: north ridge, south ridge and southwest ridge, from which north ridge and south ridge are the main ridges of Karakoram Mountains as well as the national boundary. The Central Peak (8016 M) and North Peak (7538 M) are located at these two ridges respectively. These three peaks are towering, directly into the blue sky, so local people call it “Flo Green Mountain”, which means “Sanjian Mountain”. “Faichan Kangri” is named after an American adventurer who climbed the mountain in 1892.
Similar to Mount Chhogori
From May to September:
Due to the warm and moist air brought by Southwest monsoon, this period is the rainy season of this region.
This period is cold winter because of strong west wind. On the summit of the mountain, the lowest temperature is -50 degrees, and the fastest wind speed can reach 5 M/S, so this period of time is forbidden for climbing. During the period from May to September, due to the melting snow cause by rising temperature, the river level in valley will soar badly, which makes it difficult to travel into the mountain. Therefore, the best season for climbing activities is from May to June, because the river level is not so high. And from July to September, there are more sunny days, so it is good time for climbing to the summit.
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From 1902 to 1954, climbing teams from the UK, Switzerland, Italy and other countries have started some climbing activities in the region of Broad Peak, but they did not succeed.
In 1957, Shirake, Brii, Kingbiegear and Winbierski from Austrian climbing team reached the summit on June 9. As the eastern slope is steep and it is very difficult to climb, no one has reached the summit successfully from the eastern slope till today.
In 1975, Krzysztof of Wielicki from Poland created the record of climbing to the summit from the BC merely by 14 hours.
In 1983, the climber from Italy finished climbing the northern peak (7550 M) on Broad Peak.
In August, 2001, “High Peak Adventurers aiming at climbing 14 mountains of over 8000 M in Tibetan China” reached the summit of Broad Peak.
On June 15, 2003, HAN Wang-Yong from Korea finished climbing Broad Peak and other 14 mountains of 8000 meters, 8 years spent in total. He is the 11th climber who has finished this kind of feat in the world.
The new route created by Kazakhstan was on southwest ridge of Broad Peak. Climbers who take this route start from the glacier (4800 M), and pass an ice-rock mixed way (a rocky wall with the vertical difference of 2300 M) from the altitude of 5500 M to 7800 M. After that, climbers will reach Broad Peak (8501 M) through a section of steep ridge.
There are merely less than 300 people who have succeeded in r eaching the summit of Broad Peak (8501 M). This is also the only mountain whose climbing risks are rising gradually among the climbing level of 8000 M. Till 1990, the death rate of climbing Broad Peak was 5%, but the rate was 8.6% from 1990 to 2004, twice more than the death rate of climbing Everest (4.4%). More than a towering peak and a horrible rocky wall, there is a new obstacle for climbers as if all these existing risks were not enough. 2005 was unlucky year for Broad Peak climbers. Based on the traditional route, the thick snow accumulation stopped climbers one after another, finally 50 climbers in total, including many excellent climbers, such as the expert for winter climbing, Artur Hajzer, and the experienced climber, Piotr Pustelnik. “The Kazakhstan route” is along the rocky wall with the vertical difference of 2300 M. It starts from the glacier, passing by steep ice-rock mixed rocky wall from the altitude of 5500 M to 7800 M.
Ideal mountain for 6000m level.
one of seven god mountains of Bon religion in Tibetan area
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